Things To Consider Before Buying African Ankara Print Fabrics, Clothing, Headwraps and more

Imitation African prints are more common than you think.

And they have eradicated thousands of jobs on the continent.

In the 1990’s, Ghana boasted 13 textile factories, which employed approximately 30,000 people. Fast forward to today—only 3,000 employees remain across 3 factories.

Similarly, textile production has dropped by 85 percent in DR Congo over the years, due to international textile piracy.

We are conscious about where we source our fabrics,
in order to ensure that our money goes toward African jobs.
We encourage you to join us in learning how
to identify quality, authentic prints made by African brands.

1. KNOW THESE TRUSTWORTHY AFRICAN PRINT (ANKARA) BRANDS

It’s important to note that just because a print is purchased in Africa, doesn’t necessarily mean it was made in Africa.

As you’ll see in the pictures below, African fabric brands work hard to distinguish themselves from cheap quality, foreign imitations.

Our favorite African print brands are GTP, Woodin, ATL, and Printex, all of which are designed and printed in Ghana. These brands are owned by both Ghanaians and foreign investors.

We also love Three Cats Shweshwe, which is designed and printed in South Africa.

THE ORIGIN OF THE TERM “ANKARA”

During our visit of Ghana’s first textile factory, we learned that the term “Ankara” was initially used by Nigerian tradesmen who were actually referring to “Accra,” the main hub for African prints. Growing up in a Ghanaian household, prints were called “ntoma,” which means “cloth” in the Akan language, Twi.

Ghana’s first textile factory, est. 1966 in the port city of Tema

2. LOCATE AND VERIFY THE BRAND NAME PRINTED ON YOUR FABRIC

When it comes to the authentic African brands listed above, the brand name and country in which it was made is printed on the selvage.

The selvage is the outer edge of the fabric and runs parallel along the length.

However, for some fabrics, like South African Shweshwe, the brand and country of origin is printed on the back of the print. See the black and gray picture below.

FABRIC CARE TIP:

To easily remove labels from your fabric without leaving sticky residue, iron over the labels (on medium heat) for approximately 20 - 30 seconds before peeling.

3. USE TECHNOLOGY TO GUARANTEE AUTHENTICITY

In order to further protect its brand from imitators, Ghanaian brand GTP incorporated technology as a way to guarantee authenticity.

In 2015, GTP partnered with global tech company mPedigree to launch a verification program. New, silver labels were added to all GTP fabrics, which reveal a security code when scratched.

Consumers in Ghana can text the security code to 1393, or if outside the country, enter the code at www.1393.co. After doing so, they receive an instant response, notifying them if their product is real or fake. We tried out the technology for ourselves as seen in the pictures below.

4. ASK YOUR AFRICAN PRINT SUPPLIER

If you’re unable to verify the origin of your African prints using the methods above, don’t be afraid to simply ask the fabric store, your tailor/seamstress, or the business where you buy your headwraps, Ankara fits, and African-inspired accessories.

We are proud to share that we source our African Ankara prints directly from African manufacturers and their partners.

Woodin Retail Store | Accra, Ghana

If it turns out your African prints weren’t made in Africa…

Don’t fret! We still own African print clothing made from the fabric brand Hi-Target, which we now know is made in China.

We’re against textile waste, so we have kept and upcycled the prints for various projects. Check out our Pinterest for ideas on different things you can make using African fabrics.

Now that we are aware of international textile piracy and what it has done to the African Textile Industry, we’re careful about where we shop, and we encourage you to join us in doing the same.

Leave a comment letting us know which African print (Ankara) brands* are your favorite, and visit our Online Shop for our latest arrivals.

Makola Market | Accra, Ghana