Can You Spot The Difference? Kente Cloth vs. Kente Prints
It’s important to note that not all Kente is authentic.
Handwoven Kente Cloth, the original, is made by the Ashanti and Ewe tribes of modern day Ghana. It is a sacred cloth that is proudly worn during special occasions, like weddings and graduation ceremonies.
Ashanti Kente
Ewe Kente
Texture
Authentic, woven Kente has a very distinct texture: you can feel each thread in the intricate designs and you can even see and feel where the strips (above) have been sewn together to create larger pieces of cloth (below).
This design is called "Mmerepa da wanim” meaning good times are ahead.
Woven Kente has a heavy weight to it and minimal stretch. It is durable and long-lasting, and its designs have meanings specific to Ghanaian culture. The fabric is often passed down as an heirloom.
AFROTHREADS™ Triangle Scarf. This design is called Odo mfempadee, meaning “the rib of a loved one.”
Kente Prints
If the ‘Kente’ looks, but does not feel like what I’ve described, it is most likely a Kente print. For decades, Kente prints have been manufactured in large quantities by factories in Asia. The designs are printed on various types of fabrics and then used to make things like pants, swimsuits, sweatsuits and more.
Kente print pants
Let’s be real…
Who wouldn’t want to enjoy beautiful Kente designs in various forms? We had a Kente cake made 5 years ago.
We’ve also purchased kente prints because of their versatility. However, our view on them changed once we learned that most Kente prints are made without recognition, consultation, or compensation to the Ghanaian weavers responsible for the designs.
Kente Prints Made outside of Africa
Foreign production of kente has a negative impact on the weaving industry. According to the weavers we met in Bonwire (the village where Ashanti Kente originates), foreigners pose as tourists interested in the cloth.
Afterward, they mass produce Kente designs and sell them for cheap, flooding the market in Ghana and abroad. This is why buying ‘Kente’ in Ghana doesn’t necessarily mean it’s authentic.
Our paternal grandfather’s hometown. He wove Kente growing up, as did several of our uncles.
As one of our customers put it, we must “beware of corporations preying on our desire for connection to the continent.”
Imitation Kente prints are very different from art made by people who are inspired by Kente, create something original, and acknowledge where their inspiration came from.
Next Steps
So what do we do about the prevalence of imitation Kente? We continue to educate ourselves and others about Kente and its origin, and we’ve made the decision to only buy authentic, woven Kente. We are working with weavers to create a Kente Cloth Library that identifies each design, and we make accessories and use Kente in a way that respect the cloth in its original form.
Motto: “Kente passed down from our fathers”
Our Kente Cloth on the set of a music video: Sunny Cowell ft. TT the Artist “Center of Attention”
We have also been in touch with Ghana’s Folklore Board and Ghanaian textile manufacturers to discuss ways to address copyright infringement.
In addition to awareness and ownership/preservation, stronger international laws are necessary to prevent further exploitation of Black artifacts like kente cloth.
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AFROTHREADS™ Upcycled Kente Glasses cases, available November 27
AFROTHREADS™ Kente Triangle Scarves, Back in Stock November 27
This article was originally published on November 24, 2020 by Evonne S. Opoku, Esq., AFROTHREADS™ Founder and Creative Director.